Chen Yi slid rapidly for a while before the ten-meter-high wave gradually diminished. Chen Yi took advantage of the remaining waves to make the final slide. Some observant spectators calculated Chen Yi's skating distance and speed and couldn't help but be surprised.
"Damn it, Chenshen slid about 1,500 meters on a wave, with an average speed of 50km/h. Even if you drive along the winding road along the coast, you may not be able to achieve this speed."
"Sure enough, for Chen Shen, not only does the huge wave not delay time, but it can also accelerate it."
"With this technology, it feels like there is no need to buy a ticket to cross the sea."
"But the waves will get bigger and bigger and more dangerous in the future."
When Chen Yi was about to run out of speed, he lay down on the surfboard again. Then he saw a big wave coming over again. In fact, when surfing normally, most of the time he is lying down and paddling. When waiting for the wave, it is better than surfing. The time is much longer. Nowadays, this kind of continuous big wave with almost no need to wait can be said to be a paradise for top surfers. Of course, it is also a nightmare for ordinary surfers.
Chen Yi observed the wave. It was a green wave. That is to say, the wave has not yet reversed, has not formed waves, and has not yet reached its highest height. It is not clear how high it will be at its highest.
Every wave is different, and the Ronin must observe carefully to better seize the opportunity to catch the wave. , especially big waves, the opportunity to catch the wave is only a moment. Observing waves can be said to be one of the essential abilities of surfing, so after Chenyi Surfing was upgraded to LV2, his observation and prediction of waves have also reached the top level. Chenyi has reached the top level in wave observation and prediction.
Yi quickly completed the observation, adjusted his direction, and paddled straight towards the direction of the wave. The wave quickly caught up with him. The sea surface began to rise, but it had not yet reached its highest level. Chen Yi paddled at a faster speed. Water to prevent the waves from rushing over and running away.
Many times, if you don’t want to surf, the waves will rush you, so even in such big waves, if you choose not to surf, but let the waves pass by, the danger is also It will be greatly reduced.
Of course, it is just safer. If you think there is no danger, you are wrong, because sometimes you don’t want to rush, but when the wave reaches your position, it is the highest point, and the wave will directly knock you down, or before it reaches The wave has started to reverse, and the huge waves will hit you directly on the head.
Because of this, surfing big waves now usually uses a motorboat tow-type surfing. The motorboat quickly drags the surfer to the right position and enters the wave at the right time..
Without a motorboat, it would be extremely difficult to catch big waves, especially with a big wave board. It is even more difficult to catch the waves. At first, the surfboards were larger just to catch the waves. Later, after Laird Hamilton invented drag surfing, Catching the wave was no longer a problem, so the big wave board was invented. They didn’t consider catching the wave, only speed.
Fortunately, Chen Yi had perfect timing, and just before the wave passed his position, he was pushed to the highest point, but this The highest point is a bit scary. A high blue water wall rises from the ground. It is roughly estimated to be at least fifteen meters. It is like pumping up the surrounding sea water.
At that moment, Chen Yi stood on A series of actions such as taking off on a surfboard, catching the wave, and standing up are called takeoffs. It can be said to be the foundation of surfing and what a surfer must learn throughout his life.
Chen Yi stepped on the surfboard and followed the fifteen-meter-high wave wall. , sliding down rapidly, drawing a diagonal line on the wave wall. At the beginning, the wave wall still had some slope, but as Chen Yi reached the middle, the wave wall became basically straight. When he was about to reach the bottom, the wave wall began to move towards It curved inward, and the water from the wave began to crash down.
Then, a shocking and terrifying scene appeared. The wall of the wave became a semicircle, and together with the water flowing down from the wave, it formed a huge tube shape. This is the famous Guanlang
There are many branches of surfing, but tube waves are the well-deserved king. It is a paradise for surfing masters and the dream of countless surfers. Many people on the earth only fell in love with surfing after watching surfing masters surf tube waves. However, I After I went to play, I realized that I would never be able to surf the waves in my life.
As for this world, Guan Lang has not yet been conquered. Don’t be surprised, in fact, the earth has also gone through a long period of development. After the invention of the big wave board, it took a while before Guanlang was conquered. Those surfing pioneers recalled that tube waves were simply monsters of hydrodynamics. Laird Hamilton, who was the first to surf in tube waves, shocked the world at the time. The photo of him surfing was featured on the cover of major magazines in the United States, with the text: How is this possible?
In this world, the development of surfing is far behind that of the earth. The big wave board was invented not long ago. It is absolutely impossible for them to challenge the fifteen-meter tube wave.
Therefore, Lin Hai, Liu Jing, Su Ya, Yan Xueqi, director Xie Kui, the staff, the owner of the marine supplies store, and several beachside ronin all gasped when they saw this scene.
"Oops, it’s a huge tube wave"
"It’s over, the seawater has just fallen down and can’t be flushed out."
"I heard that this kind of pipe wave is like a huge washing machine drum. If you are swept in, it will be like spinning inside the huge washing machine drum. You can't find it in any direction on the sea surface."
"Program crew, prepare to rescue people quickly"
"I'm just afraid that after being rushed in, I won't be able to find anyone at all."
The staff of the program team are still very dedicated. The motorboat has rushed to the front of the wave and is ready to rescue at any time. However, looking at the waves following behind the waves, I almost suffocated. If
Chen Yi was smashed into the sea, If row after row of waves crashed over from behind, they would not have enough time to rush in to save people, and Chen Yi would probably not be able to surface at all.
At that critical moment, Chen Yi himself was very calm. His previous observation was that It has been seen that this is probably a pipe wave. The conditions for the formation of a pipe wave are quite special. It is different from other waves. Most people may not be able to see it, but Chen Yi, who is surfing LV2, can see it.
So the current scene, as early as he As expected, he was more excited than scared. In his previous life, he had not played surfing the most, and he had never played a tube wave of this level.
Not only did he not speed up and rush out, but he also put his weight on his back foot. Lower the tail of the board to slow down, and at the same time, reach out with one hand to touch the curved wave wall. This is not only to slow down but also to increase balance, and at the same time, you want to experience this feeling. Regardless of the wave wall, which wanderer doesn't want to touch it?
Before reaching the bottom of the wave At that moment, he suddenly turned at the bottom of the wave to avoid the falling waves, and then a scene that shocked the whole audience appeared. Chen Yi actually slid along the inner wall of the wave in the river pipe, and he was surrounded by the wave wall and water curtain. The picture is as beautiful as a dream.
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