In this world, it’s not like there are no people who have surfed ten-meter waves, but they always use motorboats and speedboats to get them to the best location, and then rush down as fast as possible, trying to stay as far away from the breaking point as possible.
How could he be like Chen Yi, who could pass directly from the breaking point? His timing, courage, and skills were all incredible. If someone else had gone up, he would have been knocked into the sea.
"At first I wasn't afraid to see him in such a big wave. I thought he was a novice who didn't know anything. But now I know that he is a super master."The owner of Lanpo Marine Products Store looked at Chen Yi gliding in front of the ten-meter wave, with a look of shock on his face. If Chen Yi rushed directly from the beach into the sea before, it was very powerful. Then rushing against this ten-meter wave , it is absolutely all in one. It is impossible to do it without absolutely solid foundation. Every step of his race against the breaking point has extraordinary skills.
The staff who were preparing for the rescue were also shocked and relaxed at the same time. Of course, they couldn't relax completely at this time. After all, Chen Yi was still on the wave wall.
Lin Hai was still frightened and said excitedly:"I was so scared just now that I didn't dare to breathe. Fortunately, he succeeded. It turns out that the waves can rush like this." , too cool. Liu
Jing said:"It was really a critical moment just now, and he was the only one who dared to do this. Of course, if there was no technical support, I'm afraid it would be over." He is not out of danger yet, the waves are still chasing him. Su
Ya's face turned red with fright and excitement:"Oh my gosh, this is so cool. I have thought about learning to surf before, but now I want to learn even more.""
Yan Xueqi said:"I have learned to surf several times, but I can only say that reality is a bit far from imagination. Surfing at Chen Yi's level is probably a realm that ordinary surfers can only imagine in their lives."
The audience in the live broadcast room was excited to watch it, but they came to their senses after hearing Yan Xueqi's words. They were excited when they saw other surfing masters' operations before. They imagined that they could also surf five-meter waves, but they went to learn it by themselves and were beaten by three people. The wave of rice is so exciting. I often wait for a long time to wait for the wave, but I can't get on it. I can't even learn three meters. How dare I dream of a ten-meter wave? Of course, everyone is excited, but also a little nervous.
"Chen Shen, hurry up, don't get hit by the waves."
"Although it looks cool, it is actually very dangerous"
"Everyone, stop praising here and cheer for Chen Shen."
I saw that the speed of the wave was very fast, and the speed of the wave crashing down was also very fast. Chen Yi stayed in front of the breaking point and slid rapidly. In fact, now, he is not as dangerous as everyone seems. At this speed, he If you deliberately control it, although the breaking point of the big wave is the most dangerous, the wave speed is the fastest at this position, and the wave head knocks down, which can push the surfboard forward.
Most of the time, Chen Yi does not need to move. He can glide quickly by just maintaining his posture. The overall posture is slightly forward, with the body bowed to reduce air resistance. The sharp wave board cuts through the waves like a sharp knife with minimal resistance, allowing the speed to be very fast.
Occasionally, the surfboard is tilted by some small waves. , he would slightly twist the surfboard and adjust it. Most people can't control the balance during high-speed surfing, but it's not difficult for him.
When the amount of water on the back of the wave increases, causing the tail of the board to be hit by the wave, he will Twist the surfboard greatly and swim on the wave wall, drawing arcs on the wave wall as if dancing a waltz. Now the wind is offshore, making the wave wall smooth, like a blue curved mirror. Any arc drawn on it will be very clear at a glance.
Sometimes he draws a semicircle, sometimes an S shape, and sometimes a U shape. It looks very casual, as if the wave wall is used as a dance floor.
When a After standing in this position for a long time, he felt a little stiff. His feet actually moved on the surfboard, switching positions, and rotating his front and rear feet.
At this time, as the wave moved forward, the height and speed were decreasing. Chen Yi He started to pull away from the breaking point behind him. He suddenly twisted his surfboard, just like a car drifting, and drastically changed direction on the wave wall. He threw out a beautiful splash and drew a half arc back to the front of the breaking point. At the same time, Turn back the direction. Then continue to rely on the impact of the collapse point to keep the surfboard moving forward. This action is called switching back.
The audience in the live broadcast room was once again dumbfounded:
"Damn it, Chen Shen seems to be at ease and content."
"He also used the wave wall as a dance floor and danced waltz on it"
"He just deliberately cut back in front of the collapse point, as if it wasn't dangerous enough"
"I understand, he was surfing using the faster wave speed at the breaking point. We also use this method when playing small waves, but this is a ten-meter wave. Most people must be afraid of being smashed to death and rush forward with all their strength. Is it true that to Chen Shen, a ten-meter wave is just a small wave?"
"I finally understood what Chen Shen said before. For him, maybe this is not a delay but can also speed up the process."
"I recorded every action, it’s so cool"
"If I learn one of these moves, will I still be unable to pick up hot girls in swimsuits?"
At this time, many newcomers came to the audience after hearing the news. When they came in and saw it, they were all stunned. It was said that the ten-meter wave was a line between life and death. This wave was ten meters long, but why did it feel like skating on it? , it doesn’t look dangerous at all. Is a ten-meter wave so easy to ride in?
At a university near the sea, a few boys had just finished class and were walking back to the dormitory. One of them was watching the news on his mobile phone while walking, and suddenly exclaimed :"Damn it, Chen Yi is riding a ten-meter wave."
"Really or not, a ten-meter wave is extremely dangerous, right? Our coaches can only ride waves of five or six meters at most. Those extreme experts rarely do this."
"Quickly open the live broadcast room and take a look"
"I have no more traffic, so I will go back to the dormitory first."
The university is at the beach, and they are also interested in surfing, so they went to learn surfing together. Anyway, the cost of surfing is relatively low.
They usually also watch World Racing when they have time, and now they see surfing Project, and there was an extremely dangerous ten-meter wave, so I was naturally interested.
They were only a few dozen meters away from the dormitory, so they arrived in a few quick steps. The dormitory was on the first floor. After entering the dormitory, they immediately opened Live broadcast room.
Then they were stunned by the scene they saw.
After being stunned for several seconds, they came back to their senses:
"This wave is obviously ten meters long, right?"
"There should be, maybe more than a few"
"Then why is he having such a leisurely time and dancing on the wave wall?"
"Don't we learn the same kind of surfing?"
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